The biggest operational problems in most modules are dead, dirty, and dysfunctional power at turnout points and frogs. Positively powered frogs and permanently bonded points guarantee smooth low speed operations.

While testing my own track-work, over a year after first assembly, I determined that my turnouts urgently needed the wiring upgrade.

Here's what I've learned, and how I'm applying it:

These are the parts of the standard turnout that affect the electrical connections talked about here.

Guard rails and other details have been left out for clarity.

This is the original wiring standard for 2 rail turnouts; Elegantly simple.

The stock rails are powered North and South, and the Points and Frog connect by direct contact to the "correct" stock rail for through traffic.

Since all electrical switching is done by the points - Dirt, loose ballast, glue, and dust can all prevent a good contact, and a smooth running train.

Peco Electro-Frog turnouts come wired this way.

A common solution to the inconsistencies of the point contact is to provide a positive switch action using a hidden switch or contacts. These contacts are provided on many turnout motors.

Short circuits can be created in two ways with this arrangement:

1. If the switch points do not move precisely with the electrical contacts a short can be formed if one makes contact before the other.
   

2. With full track power across that narrow gap, any slightly misaligned metal wheel can short out the narrow space between the open point and stock rail. Derailments at the points will ALWAYS cause a short.
   

Pico Electro-Frog turnouts can be modified to eliminate both shorting problems. [The green lines in the diagram show insulating gaps]

Here the points are constantly electrified with the same polarity as the adjacent rail.

The frog section is positively connected by the remote contacts without a concern of being out of alignment with the points. This arrangement is much less likely to cause a short.

 

Optimizing A Pico Electro-Frog Turnout

Pico turnouts are tricky to add remote electrical contacts to, as delivered. The strong snap spring on the throw bar works against the spring in an operator and makes the moment of contact a constant surprise. I remove the spring for operation with Tortoise switch machines, but I understand that a Tortoise will operate a Peco sprung throwbar if a stiffer spring wire is used in the Tortoise.

The following modification will work with any configuration.

The operation is in two simple parts:

1. Isolate the frog by cutting the closure rails.
   

2. Electrically bond the stock rails to the points and closure rails.
   

3. Connect a power feed to the frog from the turnout operator, or frog juicer.
   

Follow the photos to see my technique.

Here's the turnout already installed.

A cutting wheel in a Dremel tool will make the cut.

Note that I'm cutting near the middle of the closure rails. Leave supporting ties on either side of the cut to securely support the rail.

Move straight down slowly with a fast spinning wheel, and don't let the wheel twist or bind. Wear eye protection! Don’t breathe the dust from the rail!

NOTE: This, by the way, is not the best place to learn this cutting technique. If you are not familiar with roto-tool cutting I'd suggest at least fifteen minutes practice on some old stock before you attempt this. A bound-up wheel will shatter immediately. Your turnout could be significantly messed up by a runaway wheel.

Here the cut runs all the way through the rail. Don't cut through the plastic tie strip if you can help it. It will help keep the turnout stable.

It is good practice to come back and fill these gaps with epoxy. The filler will prevent a conductive shaving from getting stuck in the gap and driving you crazy. I'll wait till later to fill the gaps, because it is much easier when working with epoxy to do all your turnouts at one time.

For bonding I used my handy de-soldering braid and some Xuron nippers.

I snipped a bit of braid...

... and placed it just above a cross-tie...

...on both sides.

Solder in place.

The finished work is shiny bright.

(I know that there are dozens of more delicate methods to do this. Smaller wires, and subtle installation from below come to mind.)

I use Floquil "Tie Brown" to disguise the connection.

Here's the final result waiting for ballast and scenery.

Run the frog power lead from the turnout operator contacts and connect it to the rail.

Note: I solder an automotive tail light bulb into the frog connection wire, to protect the layout from shorts. Use of lightbulbs is an old technique that's well covered elsewhere...

I hope this information is a help. Shoot me a note if I've created more confusion than clarity.

Kevin Hunter